From the Courts to the Catwalks: The Evolution of Sneakers

Jul 3

Photo: Jesse Owens and the 1936 Olympics

Few garments have had the transformative impact of sneakers in the annals of fashion history. Originating in the late 19th century as utilitarian footwear for athletes, sneakers have morphed into a global fashion phenomenon, with a staggering USD 152.4 billion in sales in 2022, according to Euromonitor. This global influence is evident in the fact that sales only increased by 2.7 percent from the previous year. Let's take a journey through time, tracing the evolution of sneakers from their humble beginnings to their current status as luxury fashion staples.

The Birth of Sneakers

Photo: Wales Goodyear rubbers. Published Date: 1891

The term "sneaker" entered the American lexicon in 1875, coinciding with the emergence of basketball shoes in 1891. Fashion will always be different. One of the most prominent mass-market phenomena in the history of fashion, sneakers (or trainers), originated in the world of sports. Athletic footwear dates back to 1839 when Charles Goodyear invented the vulcanization process, producing a form of rubber resistant enough to make soles for canvas uppers. The earliest examples of these canvas-and-rubber shoes were designed for playing croquet and lawn tennis.

Key players in the history of sneakers, such as the American firm U.S. Rubber and the Liverpool Rubber Company in the U.K., have significantly shaped the evolution of athletic footwear. However, it was the invention of basketball by Dr. James Naismith, a Canadian physical education instructor at the Young Men's Christian Association Training School in Springfield, Massachusetts, that truly propelled athletic shoes into the limelight. The increasing professionalization of sport and the resurrection of the Olympic Games by Pierre de Coubertin in Athens in 1896 further fueled the manufacture of sports shoes. In 1917, the All-Star basketball shoes, a creation of the American company Converse, gained widespread recognition, largely due to the endorsement of the star player Chuck Taylor.

Photo: In the 1960s 90% of college and professional basketball players wore Chuck Taylor All Stars via yrbmagazine.com

Sports Marketing and Celebrity Endorsements

Photo: 1925, sprint shoe, shoe size: 6 (UK), 176 g
image © adidas

Sports marketing was born. Adi Dassler, the founder of the German firm Adidas, subsequently exploited the idea by ensuring that champion sprinters wore his newly designed running shoes, which incorporated nails in their soles. The consummate athlete Jesse Owens ensured the celebrity of the Adidas name when he carried off four gold medals at the Berlin Olympics in 1936. In the early 1970s, Bill Bowerman, co-founder of Nike, revolutionized running shoes with his tread design based on his wife's waffle iron, kicking off a running craze. The signature Nike "Swoosh," arguably one of the most recognizable logos in the world, was designed for the company in 1971 by Carolyn Davidson, a student at Portland State University. Technological advances such as air cushioning and reflective trim quickly distinguished world market leaders Nike and Reebok, with Adidas lagging in third place.

Photo: Nike "Swoosh" logo was designed by Carolyn Davidson while a graphic design student at Portland State University in Portland, Oregon. For her services, the company paid her $35 ($206 in 2015 dollars). The Swoosh was first used by Nike on June 18, 1971, and was registered with the U.S. Patent Office on January 22, 1974.

Photo: **Nike Cortez advertising** (June 1973). When Philip Knight and Bill Bowerman ceased importing and distributing running shoes through Blue Ribbon Sports and launched Nike as a designer and maker of athletic shoes, the Cortez silhouette carried over to the new brand.

From the Streets to the Stars: Sneakers in Pop Culture

Photo: Melanie Griffith as Tess McGill in *Working Girl*

How did this sports accessory become a cult object par excellence? The idea of turning athletic shoes into streetwear originated in America: students had long worn them on college campuses, and as jogging became fashionable, office assistants wore sneakers on their way to work. Shoes linked to sports stars and celebrities ensured instant success for certain styles: Michael Jackson wore Nikes, Run-DMC sported Superstars by Adidas, and Madonna showed off her kicks with leggings and skirts. Sneakers became a symbol of urban cool, worn by celebrities and ordinary individuals alike as a statement of style and identity.

Photo: Michael Jordan wearing 1985 Air Jordan Retro 1

Fashion Forward: Sneakers on the Catwalk

The 1980s in Europe witnessed the fusion of sneakers with high fashion, as designers like Jean Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westwood provocatively paired sneakers with dresses, challenging traditional notions of footwear. It wasn't long before no one batted an eyelid at the sight, and in 1997, Prada launched Prada Sport, a perfect hybrid of sport and style that earned worldwide fame, uniting fashion enthusiasts across the globe. This trend continued into the 1990s, culminating in the rise of luxury sneakers that blurred the lines between athletic and fashion footwear.

The Rise of Sneaker Collaborations

Photo: *Reebok by Pyer Moss Collection 4. Photo: Courtesy of Reebok*

Today's sports labels are no longer wary of high fashion: Adidas has lines designed by Stella McCartney and Yohji Yamamoto, and since being bought by the Pinault-Printemps-Redoute group in 2007, Puma (founded by Adi Dassler's brother Rudolf) has developed models on the cutting edge of design, including a collection by Alexander McQueen. Luxury brands have embraced the allure of sneakers, collaborating with athletic footwear giants to create coveted collections that marry style with performance. Stella McCartney partnered with Adidas to develop sustainable and stylish sneakers, while Yohji Yamamoto joined forces with the brand to produce avant-garde designs. Alexander McQueen's collaboration with Puma and Pyer Moss's partnership with Reebok has further elevated sneakers to high fashion, proving that sneakers are not just for the courts but also the catwalks.

Photo: Adidas by Stella McCartney RTW Spring 2017

Sneakers have transformed remarkably from their humble beginnings as sports footwear to their present status as luxury fashion must-haves. With their ability to bridge the worlds of sport and style, sneakers have become more than just shoes—they're symbols of self-expression, innovation, and cultural significance. As we look to the future, one thing is clear: the legacy of sneakers will contiually shape the fashion world for years to come.

The story of sneakers is not just about footwear; it's a tale of cultural shifts, technological advancements, and the unending quest for self-expression. Sneakers have made their mark from the courts to the catwalks, proving that true fashion knows no boundaries.

Oliver Brown