Maturing Design: An Interview with QUINE LI
In the fast-paced fashion world, standing out requires more than creativity; it demands a unique vision and a fearless design approach. QUINE LI, founded by visionary designer Kuai, embodies these principles, crafting pieces that transcend fleeting trends to achieve timeless, iconic status. Kuai's remarkable journey from an industrial design background to a celebrated fashion designer highlights her bold leap of faith and passion for art, resulting in a brand that celebrates the human body as a living piece of art.
Kuai's industrial design training profoundly influences her fashion creations, blending rationality and structure with artistic flair. Her innovative use of materials and geometric shapes sets QUINE LI apart, making each piece a sculptural masterpiece. Despite lacking formal fashion training, Kuai's relentless pursuit of her vision has led to rapid skill development and a unique design approach, exemplified by her use of unconventional materials and the impact of social media in boosting her career and leading to high-profile collaborations, including a standout project with Kylie Jenner.
Kuai's designs are deeply influenced by her cultural heritage and the New York environment, blending traditional Chinese elements with modern geometric silhouettes. Her commitment to finding the perfect material underscores her artistic vision. Collaborations with stylists and magazines have significantly impacted her career, showcasing her ability to create bold, boundary-pushing designs. For millennials contemplating a career shift into fashion or any creative field, Kuai's journey is a testament to following one's passion with unwavering commitment. Read below for the full interview to learn more about Kuai's inspiring story and her innovative brand, QUINE LI.
Kuai, you have a unique background in industrial design. How has your training in this field influenced your approach to fashion design?
This is a fascinating question because I draw inspiration from fashion and art when I study industrial design. I feel influenced by industrial design and art when I engage in fashion design. However, industrial design is more rational, and this is reflected in the structure and materials of my fashion designs.
Transitioning from a design director in the travel product industry to founding your fashion brand, QUINE LI must have been a significant shift. What were some of the biggest challenges you faced during this transition?
The biggest challenge was daring to venture into an entirely new field, as I needed to gain a background in fashion design and production before becoming a fashion designer. At that time, I wasn'twas curious if I could do it well. It was more of a psychological barrier. However, after making up my mind and putting it into practice, I found it wasn'twas easier than I had imagined.
You mentioned before that you needed basic clothing skills during your fashion studies. How did you overcome this challenge, and what advice would you give others in a similar situation?
First, a lot of practice and experimentation will lead to rapid skill improvement. Also, don't worry too much about the lack of specific skills. You don't necessarily need advanced pattern-making and sewing skills, but you should be willing to try everything possible to realize your creative ideas. I remember my professor saying that no one cares if you can make a suit. If you can create your design using a stapler, that's perfectly fine too.
Your designs incorporate elements from both art and fashion. Can you elaborate on how you achieve this blend and what it means for the identity of QUINE LI?
I didn't intentionally integrate art into my brand. It's probably because I developed a strong passion for art and architecture during my undergraduate studies. I've always pursued a sense of timeless quality. I don't want to design pieces that are quickly forgotten. I believe this obsession has influenced my fashion design. I feel that QUINE LI reflects my belief in art.
Social media played a significant role in your early collaborations. How important do you think social media is for emerging designers today, and how do you use it to connect with your audience?
Social media is incredibly important for designers as it determines whether your talent gets noticed. Initially, I wasn't sure how to gain attention. However, I started consistently posting some of my latest works. Gradually, I found that more and more people saw and praised my work. I was pleasantly surprised to discover that my design gets more recognition and builds confidence. Before this, I wasn't sure if anyone would understand my work. Social media provides a very direct way of communicating, where even strangers generously give you feedback and cheer for your achievements, like celebrating at a party.
Working with celebrities like Kylie Jenner must have been a pivotal moment in your career. How did this collaboration come about, and how did it impact your brand?
Collaborating with Kylie Jenner was a surreal experience. When I received the collaboration invitation, I was in the second semester of my MFA program, and it was my first year of learning fashion design. I was surprised and wondered if I was good enough or qualified to receive such an opportunity. I didn't have much experience. However, this also made the collaboration particularly interesting because fashion is very much about perception, transcending all rules. The collaboration was quick because the stylist, Mackenzie Grandquist, was very professional. She had clear requirements and knew what would suit Kylie best, so everything went smoothly. This collaboration was a great start for the brand and led to many subsequent projects. It also quickly brought me to the attention of many stylists and magazines before I graduated. I'm very grateful to have had this experience.
The QUINE LI brand is known for celebrating the human body as a living piece of art. Can you share more about your philosophy behind this and how it influences your design process?
I love art, and for me, fashion is living art. The people who interpret fashion breathe soul into it. When I regard the human body as a living piece of art, it's not just about designing clothes anymore. People become part of a performance art, giving these moments a sense of timelessness. Moreover, art is a purer way of expressing thoughts, allowing the audience to feel the message I want to convey directly.
Your passion for geometric shapes and sculptural aesthetics is evident in your work. Can you discuss how these elements are incorporated into your designs and why they resonate with you?
Geometry holds extraordinary significance for me, and I love using basic geometric shapes in my designs. Geometric forms possess a unique and iconic quality. As visual creatures, people have a strong memory and association with classic geometric shapes. For example, the pyramid has existed for thousands of years with its stable and simple geometric structure. In the face of time, it is the answer.
As a Chinese designer based in New York, how do you blend cultural influences from your heritage and current environment into your designs?
When I first applied to the fashion design program, I designed a collection with a Chinese cultural theme called 'Sweet Dreams In The Garden.' This series combined traditional Chinese embroidery patterns with modern geometric silhouettes. At the time, I wanted to explore the possibilities of Chinese traditional culture in a contemporary context. For my graduation project at FIT, I chose Chinatown as the location for the photo shoot, which was also an exploration of cultural fusion and independent reality. The final photos were intriguing, with model-like sculptures standing amidst the streets and crowds of a Chinese-style backdrop. There was a surreal sense of harmony, and I enjoyed the collision and fusion of elements.
QUINE LI aims to create timeless and iconic pieces. How do you balance staying true to your artistic vision with the ever-changing trends in the fashion industry?
This question is challenging because sometimes 'timeless' and 'trendy' are not necessarily conflicting. For example, when I designed my first ready-to-wear collection, 'Embrace Softness, ' I envisioned people as part of sculptures. Later, it became popular when worn by Kylie Jenner. I believe the audience can sense these designs' timeless and iconic nature; they are attracted to them. As a designer, I need to remain objective and constantly evaluate the core values of my work.
Your brand philosophy focuses on harmonizing material and form. Can you describe your process for selecting materials and ensuring they align with your design vision?
This was a very interesting process. Because my undergraduate major was industrial design, I was more familiar with industrial materials than traditional clothing materials. Many of my designs have shapes that are difficult to achieve with fabrics, so I often explore Home Depot. For example, for that 3-meter-long neon green outfit—I added a 3-meter-long stick inside. This stick had to be as thin as possible while remaining straight. Wood and plastic pipes didn't work because they bent due to length. I found copper pipes used in construction in the Home Depot warehouse. They were hollow, light, straight, and thin. I was so happy to find the right material. I remember walking back from 23rd Street to the school studio on 27th Street while holding it. Because of its size, I couldn't take the subway, so everyone on the Street was looking at me because it's rare to see someone walking with such a strange thing. When I got back to the studio, even the professor was surprised.
You have worked with many stylists and fashion magazine projects. Can you share memorable experiences or collaborations that have significantly impacted your career?
One of the most memorable collaborations was with Brazilian stylist Pedro Sales. He styled Sabrina Sato for the Brazil TIKTOK AWARDS, borrowing the black wings cover with lack. The outfit was heavily packaged, and the assistant who came to collect it was astonished by the package size, double-checking several times before taking it. Time was tight as they needed to fly to Brazil the next day. I was uncertain if the outfit would be damaged or if they would even use it. However, my Instagram account was flooded with tags on the evening of the event. Sabrina appeared live wearing my design, almost completely nude under the lace cover. It was the perfect presentation for that design, but I hadn't expected her to wear it at such a huge event. I felt their strong passion for art and fashion—they disregarded all rules, which was bold and touching for me then. Several other collaborations with Brazilian stylists were equally unforgettable. Whenever I expressed concerns, they always said, 'Let's do it.' They were willing to overcome any challenges to create beautiful moments. Almost every time, They had to fly with oversized packages to Brazil. Their determination gave me tremendous support and courage.
As a designer who started in a different field, what advice would you give to millennials looking to make a career shift into fashion or any other creative industry?
Do what you truly love, do it right away, and be even more committed than before.
What does redefining what it means to be mature in the fashion industry look like to you, and how do you incorporate this into your brand and personal ethos?
Nowadays, many young designers are highly distinctive and energetic, and their works can be quickly seen and spread. There's no longer a unified standard for garment craftsmanship and presentation forms. Maturity, to me, is whether the audience deeply feels the message you want to convey. Therefore, I prefer to present things straightforwardly, in a way that is understood without explanation. It's about staying true to my senses and being honest with the audience. They can feel it.