Maturing Design: A Conversation with Emilia Siano of Libra

Photo: Libra

Emilia Siano, the designer behind Libra, sees design as more than creating accessories—it’s about blending tradition, innovation, and individuality. Growing up near Salerno, she learned cutting, sewing, and leatherwork in her parents’ workshop, skills that now shape her modern approach. Through Libra, she combines Italian craftsmanship with fresh ideas, creating pieces she calls "emotional prostheses" that empower people to embrace their unique stories.

In this interview, Emilia shares how themes like diversity and empowerment influence her work, how she balances tradition with innovation, and why her designs go beyond trends to connect past and present. Explore her world of purposeful design and the artistry behind Libra.

Read the full interview below!


Photo: Libra

Mature: How has growing up near Salerno and learning traditional cutting, sewing, and leatherwork techniques in your parents' workshop shaped your perspective on design and craftsmanship?

Libra: Growing up near Salerno, in an environment rich in craft traditions, and working in my parents' workshop allowed me to acquire fundamental know-how. There I learned that design cannot disregard a deep knowledge of techniques and materials, essential elements in transforming an idea into reality. This approach taught me to design carefully, integrating aesthetics and functionality in a conscious way.

Mature: Your academic background spans architecture and accessory design, culminating in an experimental thesis on diversity, disability, and design. How do these themes continue to influence your creative process and the ethos of Libra?

Libra: The theme of diversity is a constant in my creative process, as designing inclusively means embracing a broad vision and understanding everyone's needs. Design thus becomes a service tool to create products that are both accessible and meaningful. In my view, this vision transforms every product into an opportunity to enhance differences by addressing a diverse audience.

Mature: Libra blends traditional leatherwork with conceptual innovation. How do you navigate the tension between honoring heritage and pushing the boundaries of contemporary design?

Photo: Libra

Libra: At Libra, the tension between tradition and innovation certainly represents a state of creative balance: working with leather using traditional techniques and integrating them with innovative conceptual approaches allows me to create products that connect past and present. It is fun and sometimes it feels like being suspended in a timeless dimension where different but complementary realities meet. It is in this timeless dimension that traditional craftsmanship becomes the means to explore new forms of expression, while conceptual innovation gives freshness and relevance to my work.Each product thus becomes a bridge between what has been and what is, celebrating the ongoing evolution of design.

Mature: You describe your accessories as "emotional prostheses" that empower the body. Can you delve into how this philosophy translates into your designs and how you want people to feel when they wear them?

Libra: To describe my accessories as “emotional prosthetics” is to consider them extensions of the body, capable of amplifying its presence and strength. Each model is designed to combine aesthetics and functionality, enveloping the wearer in a sense of confidence and power. I want people to feel valued, bold and aware of their uniqueness, as if the accessory becomes a contemporary armor, capable of communicating identity and emotions. It is a deep dialogue between object and individual, where design becomes a means of expression and personal strength.

Mature: Millennials can be described as a generation that values individuality, authenticity, and emotional connection to brands. How do you approach designing for millennials, and what role does their mindset play in your work?

Libra: As a millennial, I share many of the values of my generation, and this naturally influences my approach to design. As a designer, I focus on creations that tell a story, allowing those who choose them to feel represented. The millennial mindset inspires me to prioritize sustainability, quality and meaning, turning each object into a vehicle for personal expression.

Photo: Libra

Mature: How do you see your designs connecting with younger generations while maintaining a timeless quality that transcends trends?

Libra: The intent is to conceive an accessory that does not merely follow a trend, but is able to maintain its value and appeal, leaving a mark and becoming part of the wearer's history. Each creation is designed to be a distinctive piece that transcends time and continues to be relevant, regardless of the fashions of the moment.

Mature: Why is working with naturally tanned leather and non-traditional materials vital to you? How do you see these choices contributing to the identity of the Libra brand?

Libra: Working with naturally tanned leathers allows me to preserve the identity of Made in Italy, synonymous with quality and tradition. At the same time, the use of unconventional materials in the world of jewelry gives me the opportunity to experiment and break the mold by introducing an element typical of the footwear industry into a field like jewelry, usually dominated by precious metals and stones. I love to challenge conventions and push the boundaries of design in new contemporary directions.

Mature: What does "the culture of the project" mean to you, and how does it manifest in your creative process from ideation to execution?

Libra: For me, “the culture of design” is encapsulated in Bruno Munari's definition: designing means “combining logic and imagination to meet a need.” In my creative process, this philosophy is manifested through a conscious approach, starting from the idea and going through all the stages until execution. The initial idea often comes from reusing old die-cuts I find in my father's workshop-this is the most fun phase I admit! The study of form is equally important: my goal is to create structures that fit the body harmoniously, following a constructivist-inspired perspective. Added to this is a thorough research of materials and a careful study of my target audience, an audience to which I am deeply connected. Each creation is designed to meet their needs, offering unique objects that blend design, craftsmanship and innovation.

Photo: Libra

Photo: Libra

Mature: Your designs often tackle themes like diversity and empowerment while embracing provocation. How do you balance inclusivity with pushing boundaries in the often-exclusive fashion world?

Libra: I believe that the fashion world is undergoing a significant transformation, reflecting the change in people. The return to authenticity, away from diktats imposed from above, requires a change of course: people want to stand out, to be heard, and to show even their imperfections, because these are what make them unique and special. When I sell my accessories, I also invite the wearer to tell their story without filters, embracing every facet of their identity. According to the principles of UDL (Universal Design for Learning), it is context that creates disability and, consequently, diversity. One way to overcome this limitation in fashion is to design garments and accessories that can adapt to a diverse audience, breaking down barriers that may exclude someone. The theme of « empowerment », which is particularly close to my heart, becomes central to this approach: uniting women and men of all cultures, recognizing them as equals and free to express their identity, role, and freedom of expression. Through design, I try to create tools that celebrate this autonomy and allow each person to feel represented and valued.

Photo: Libra

Mature:You collaborate with local master artisans to recover and reinterpret traditional patterns. What have been some of the most surprising or meaningful moments in this collaborative process?

Libra: Collaborating with local master craftsmen creates a mutually enhancing situation. While they pass on their valuable know-how to me, I bring a fresh and innovative vision, which stimulates their interest and opens up new possibilities. This reciprocity enriches both of us: on the one hand, there is respect for tradition and craft; on the other, there is the emergence of new ideas that go beyond established patterns. Together, we create something that not only honors the past, but reinterprets it in a contemporary and meaningful way

Mature: What does mature mean to you, both personally and in the context of your work? How do you interpret and integrate this concept into your designs?

Libra: For me, Mature, both personally and professionally, lies in openness to change and the ability to adapt. It is the predisposition to problem solving, which is one of the fundamental characteristics of a designer: facing challenges with creativity and pragmatism. I like to grow through confrontation with people; my curiosity drives me to

Credits
Photographer: Patrizia Fusi
Photographer: Lucrezia Testa Iannilli
Model: Maya Carugno
Model: Jessica De Masi
Makeup Artist: Laura Zanfrisco

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