The Standout Shows from NYFW’s First Day: Area, Brandon Maxwell, Collina Strada and More
NYFW kicked off with a series of shows that epitomized innovation, diversity, and unapologetic boldness. Proenza Schouler, led by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, set the tone on September 4th with an intimate preview in their Tribeca loft. Their collection, which embraced nautical themes, was a unique departure and homage to their design heritage. 'This season, we're reimagining some of our codes from the past in new ways,' McCollough shared with Vogue. These codes were brought to life in pleats and fringe, with a color palette dominated by black, navy, crimson, and lilac, punctuated by stripes and floral prints. A navy dress with a white flower print and a train was a standout piece, as well as a leather dress with a leather accent tied against the waist, showcasing the brand's design approach.
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Two days later, Collina Strada brought a different energy to the week. Hillary Taymour's Spring collection, titled 'Touch Grass,' was showcased in the lush urban grasslands of East Village. Although I wasn't personally in attendance, the images online spoke of layered textures and lightly washed pastels that were romantic but grungy. Highlights included chartreuse, heliotrope, and brown floral dress with thin straps, a textured white button-up paired with plaid cargo pants, and a floating puffy mini skirt layered with a plaid jacket. Grass-stained knees and stuffed iguanas added a sense of youth and playfulness.
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Taymour's casting was a celebration of diversity in age, size, and identity, a refreshing sight in an industry that still grapples with inclusivity. The hairstyles were a diverse mix, ranging from crimped long hair, hoovering over the grass from a center part braided cornrows, buzzcuts, and a green-dyed space bun and bang look. The makeup was clean and light, and some models had bleached eyebrows, adding to the diverse beauty on display. Later in the evening, Collina Strada collaborated with UGG at an afterparty featuring music by Papi Juice.
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Brandon Maxwell's collection was a display of minimalist elegance, set against a clean backdrop. It was a masterclass in understated luxury, with pleated collared dresses featuring delicate pink petal-like ruffles peeking from under skirts. Strategically placed leather scarves added edge to crisp white blouses and belted skirts. The clear sandals paired with these outfits oozed modern refinement, speaking to the modern city woman—versatile, chic, and on-the-go. The silky two-piece sets were designed to transition seamlessly from day to night, embodying the effortless blend of practicality and sensuality.
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Another show I have to give a shoutout to is Area. Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk's collection was nothing short of spectacular. It had daring safari-like animal prints and bold silhouettes reminiscent of Grace Jones—broad shoulders, a cinched waist, and oversized belts with beautiful statement-size hardware. My favorite was the peaked caps that covered the models' eyes, adding a sense of mystery but strength. Leather and moto jackets brought a masculine edge, while feminine touches like fringe wrapped around the body added a sensual fluidity. Perhaps most striking were the models adorned not in fabric but in hardware—metal accents that covered the body in a futuristic and provocative display. This collection celebrated strong, unapologetic women, making bold statements with every step down the runway.
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway
NYFW's first day set a high bar for the week ahead, showcasing collections as diverse as they were daring, each designer offering a unique take on femininity, strength, and innovation. From Proenza Schouler's nautical elegance to Collina Strada's playful inclusivity, Brandon Maxwell's understated luxury, and Area's provocative boldness, the day was a testament to the evolving fashion landscape.